Pollos Maria in Oceanside is trying to be more than just a place serving up greasy, overdone Mexican favorites. Its specialty is broiled chicken, and the folks there
have kindly installed a large, plate-glass window looking onto the
grill, through which you can watch the master broiler (my term).
My new favorite thing to eat (and say) is Bul Gogi Dup
Bap, a relatively common yet utterly delicious dish of sirloin marinated
in a sauce—possibly angel tears—that’s both rich and savory but with an
overall impression of satisfying sweetness.
Though there are still bumps and kinks to work out, it
appears to me that the new team is busting its hump to turn Urban Grind
back into an open gathering place with quality products and friendly
The Range shares a corner with The Ruby Room nightclub
and has a bright, shiny disposition. There’s plenty of seating upstairs,
downstairs and along the bar, as well as in a more private—and,
ironically, caged-looking—area called “The Chicken Coop.”
The warm and bright dining room is open without feeling cavernous. The wooden beams supporting the ceiling lend a gorgeous rustic feel, and the zebra wood tables keep the natural theme going with a modern look.
Even in late fall, one menu special was the panzanella salad filled with
explosively juicy tomatoes the color of sunshine and hunks of ciabatta
that soaked up the oily dressing without turning into limp sponges of