Albie’s Beef Inn is the restaurant time forgot

Mission Valley spot is the essence of retro cool

It’s best to leave your craft-cocktailing, farm-to-tabling, dining predispositions at the door and enjoy the no-frills meat-and-booze den for what it is

Monday, January 30,2012
Food & Drink

Brian Malarkey brings it

In Gingham, the former Top Chef contestant-turned-restaurateur's got a good thing going

By Amy T. Granite

Malarkey’s front-of-the-house post—near the kitchen’s expo area over which he keeps a watchful eye—garners handshakes and hugs from locals who echo the sentiment that Gingham is tailored just-right for downtown La Mesa.

Monday, January 23,2012
Food & Drink

Hits and misses at Davanti Enoteca

Local outpost of popular Chicago-based chain’s a little rough around the edges

By Amy T. Granite

Aside from the rumored delish Italian fare served small-plates style, I was equally curious about what all the growing fuss amounted to.

Monday, January 16,2012
Food & Drink

Bolillo Torta offers bueno late-night eats

The unsung hero of Mexican street food gets its own Gaslamp lounge

By Amy T. Granite

Tortas are arguably the unsung hero of Mexican street food, competing with tacos in a popularity contest they’ve seemingly lost in the states.

Monday, January 9,2012
Food & Drink

Snooze vs. morningzilla

Hillcrest farm-to-table breakfast spot offers many reasons to return

By Amy T. Granite

I’ll return if just for the breakfast “pot pie” ($8.50)—a buttery, flaky, perfect puff pastry cradling down-home-tasting sausage gravy, a mix of vegetables and sunny-side-up egg.

Monday, January 2,2012
Food & Drink

Saltbox delivers stylish, tasty food

Go for the Oxtail Jam; stay for the confusing bathrooms

By Jenny Montgomery

We started our seated dining experience with Brown Butter & Lemon Popcorn, a welcome change from the ubiquitous “let’s cover something in truffle oil” appetizer.

Monday, December 26,2011
Food & Drink

Pollos Maria elevates the humble taco shop

This Oceanside joint sits in that in-between spot between greasy cuchara and classy sit-down restaurant

By Jenny Montgomery

Pollos Maria in Oceanside is trying to be more than just a place serving up greasy, overdone Mexican favorites. Its specialty is broiled chicken, and the folks there have kindly installed a large, plate-glass window looking onto the grill, through which you can watch the master broiler (my term).

Monday, December 19,2011
Food & Drink

Peruvian cuisine in Del Mar a secret no more

Rich and evocative flavors abound in a warm, intimate atmosphere

By Jenny Montgomery

Husband and wife team Bratzo and Daniella Basagoitia have clearly poured their hearts and creativity into their restaurant, and the menu has all sorts of fun treasures to mine.

Monday, December 12,2011
Food & Drink

Korean bites and delights at Convoy’s Friend’s House

Sweet, savory, and spicy entertain your palate

By Jenny Montgomery

My new favorite thing to eat (and say) is Bul Gogi Dup Bap, a relatively common yet utterly delicious dish of sirloin marinated in a sauce—possibly angel tears—that’s both rich and savory but with an overall impression of satisfying sweetness.

Monday, December 5,2011
Food & Drink

Urban Grind makes a comeback

Despite some rough edges, new ownership shows promise

By Jenny Montgomery

Though there are still bumps and kinks to work out, it appears to me that the new team is busting its hump to turn Urban Grind back into an open gathering place with quality products and friendly employees.