You know it's a different kind of Chinese restaurant when there's no rice on the menu. And Xian Kitchen (4690 Convoy St.) in the Convoy District is definitely that: a very different kind of Chinese restaurant
It is Lachance's fine mess that gives Mess Royale (142 University Ave.) in Hillcrest its name. Mess Royale's poutine features hand-cut and twice-cooked French fries topped with imported-from-Wisconsin cheese curds all slathered in a brown gravy based on beef, veal and chicken stocks.
This article began its life as a pissing contest on Facebook. What started as a thread in which writer/blogger/TV personality Bill Esparza criticized the level of analysis in Thrillist.com's article on the 16 best street-food cities in the world became a debate about what constitutes "street food."
Perhaps the best starting point is with Myung In's steamed dumplings with pork and shrimp. Essentially a Korean take on sui mai, this version's shaped a bit more like a "beggar's purse" and garnished with chives.
The "French Dip" is Southern California's entry in the Best Sandwich on the Planet derby. The version at Rubicon Deli (3715 India Street, Mission Hills), the Dapper Dipper, may be the best I've tasted.
In Jacobellis v. Ohio, 378 U.S. 184 (1964), Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart declined to define "hardcore pornography," writing, instead: "I know it when I see it." The same might be said of Middle Eastern food.
Authentic: It's a word we think we understand. Take "Chinese food," for example. We think we know "authentic Chinese" right up until we realize that deep into the '60s, chop suey was the hallmark, though chop suey is hardly a Chinese dish at all.