Terra nova

Is Terra a new reason to head east? Survey says yes.
- Photo by Jenny Montgomery

Farm-to-table has become so commonplace in any self-respecting food town that any restaurant not getting on board the locavore train is more the exception than the rule. Yet it’s easy to forget that there aren’t a ton of farm-to-table options outside of San Diego proper.

Surprisingly, La Mesa is one of those communities that, until recently, didn’t have one. But now that Hillcrest stalwart Terra Restaurant has changed neighborhoods after 13 years in the same spot, the revamped Terra American Bistro is bringing delicious and farm-fresh dishes to the land east of 70th Street.

Though the area of El Cajon Boulevard where Terra has landed may not have the cosmopolitan air of its former haunt, it’s much easier to access, with ample parking (picture the homicidal-rage-inducing feelings created by the Hillcrest Trader Joe’s parking lot) and a simple, open and boisterous dining room.

I can’t imagine Terra’s loyal fans not following the fare just a bit farther east; the food is that good. Hopefully, this new location will bring in new diners, as the flavors and tastes Jeff Rossman and crew cook up are seasonal, well-rounded and consistently terrific.

Terra is one of those restaurants where there are so many tasty-sounding options on the menu that cutthroat wheeling and dealing is needed to maximize the chance to try as much as you can. The small plates and pizzas are enough to make up a diverse meal of flavors and textures, but the traditional entrées are equally worthy of filling your belly. And with a focus on seasonal menu items, the specials offer some exciting treats.

We lucked out on a seafood-heavy night and opted for the Seafood Croquette appetizer. The croquettes were creamy on the inside, with just-big-enough chunks of fish and crab and a light, crisp outer coating. I gleefully dragged the fish balls (I think that’s what croquette translates to, yes?) through the delicate and buttery avocado crema spooned all over the plate.

The star of our evening was the Grilled Steelhead Salmon. The rosy swimmer came drizzled with a sweet and smoky barbecue cream sauce that could have overpowered the fish, but instead complemented its strong and wild flavor. Served on a bed of emerald-green spinach gnocchi, the plate was bursting with color and plenty of taste to boot.
Meat-eaters shouldn’t miss out on the Chipotle Skirt Steak. The oft-chewy cut of meat was tender and juicy, with a great spicy crust of caramelization on the outside. Terra’s famous potato and brie quesadillas fill out the hefty plate; the crispy tortillas sing with a glaze of honey and chili that coats the charred exterior.

In this booze-happy town, most restaurants don’t bother to put any energy toward non-alcoholic beverages worth drinking. And sure, non-drinkers confuse me, too, but on a recent visit, we had a pregnant lady in our midst, so other options had to be considered. Terra is currently serving a refreshing and delightful mocktail called The Boulevard. Plump, sugary strawberries are muddled along with fresh mint, lime and a faint background of rosemary-infused syrup. Sure, gin would have made it even better (it usually does), but The Boulevard had all the festiveness and complexity of any self-respecting craft cocktail.

For those not currently gestating a human, check out the Blood Orange Cosmopolitan. Made with vodka that’s been infused with blood oranges and tarragon, the fruit and the herb make fun glassmates. The blood orange is tangy and electric, and the tarragon imparts an anise flavor that hits your nose long before you take a sip.

La Mesa should thank the stars that Terra has found its new home in its hills. With all sorts of fun weekly events (Lobsterfest Fridays and Barbecue Thursdays to name two) and a consistently delicious seasonal menu, Terra’s down-to-earth food is worth the change of scenery.   

Correction: While Terra is right outside the city of La Mesa, it's technically in the College Area in the city of San Diego.

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.