Get sauced

One of Brett's sauced-up pulled-chicken sandwiches
- Photo by Kelly Davis

I realize that when people talk about “good barbecue,” the debate gets very passionate and sweaty and twangy. Some like tomato-based sauces, some like bases of vinegar and others want no sauce at all, merely slow-cooked meat and nothing else. Perhaps this heated battle signals the fact that we’ve run out of real problems. We’re an advanced- and civilized-enough society that we can afford to get riled up enough about what mixture of condiments marinates our foodstuffs. Or maybe we’re just wacky carnivores who delight in the eons-old tradition of putting meat to heat and calling it dinner.

Fortunately for us San Diegans, we don’t really have a dog in this fight. Oh, sure, you Carolina or Texas or Kansas City transplants may have your set-in-stone thoughts on the matter, but, here, it’s all good, man! We’ll eat it if it’s tasty and not worry too much if the whole concoction is not “proper” according to certain regional standards. We save our energy for more important matters, like endlessly discussing the intricacies of May Gray versus June Gloom.

There must be a rule somewhere that barbecue joints have to be named after some guy. The latest gentleman to put his name on a bastion of the barbie is Brett Nicholson, with his Brett’s BBQ restaurants.

The delight and hassle of eating barbecue is the finger- (and palm- and wrist-) lickin’ mess that comes with chowing down on a pile of saucy bones. Thankfully, one of the first things you’ll see upon walking through Brett’s doors is a row of stainless-steel sinks. Wash those paws before and after you dig into your heap o’ meat.

Brett’s imports hickory wood from out of state (I’m guessing eucalyptus doesn’t impart quite the same delicious smoky flavor) and smokes all its meat for 16 hours. No matter what sort of sauce you slap on it, a long and slow cooking process is the only way to create barbecue worth getting all over your face.

The baby back ribs are a wonderfully messy way to go. There’s ample meat on the bones, all of it succulent and tender. There’s just enough fat on each piece to seal in the juices and to give the ribs a rich flavor and texture. Be sure to also check out the Texas Rope Sausage, which you can buy by the pound or on a bun with onions, peppers and cheese.

Speaking of sandwiches, Brett’s are exceptional; they’re large and stuffed with a choice of seven different meaty options, including pulled chicken, for those who prefer barbecued birds. They each come with one side, and considering how much food you get on your plate, it’s a great value for just $8.

The pulled pork is great, but the beef brisket is sensational. It’s easy to hide inferior meat under a lot of sauce, but Brett’s strikes just the right balance of making sure it’s the protein that shines. The brisket is delectable, with a lot of heft and smokiness, miles away from its chewy imitators due to its hours-long smokeout.

The sides are nothing out of the ordinary as far as barbecue places go—the mac ’n’ cheese is totally starchy and unhealthy and exactly what you want with a rack of ribs. The corn pudding and sweet potato fries are slightly more sophisticated (as much as a place with sinks in the dining room can be), and tasty to boot.

Brett’s BBQ is a great place to take the family (as my young messy-faced nephews can attest), but anyone looking for a hearty plate of smoked meats will be happy with the offerings, no matter what part of the country you’re from.

Now go wash up.   

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.