Friendly at the Park

Monica's verdant patio
- Photo by Jenny Montgomery

Tucked into a quiet corner of University Heights are the stony echoes of Mission Cliff Gardens, a former public garden and ostrich farm that faded away (or was subdivided into saleable lots by a developer) in the 1940s. It’s a modest park, but, still, a perfect urban oasis, perched over Mission Valley and at the crossroads of Park Boulevard and Adams Avenue. What makes this little spot even more delightful is a café, the kind of neighborhood eatery where you can pore over the newspaper, update your blog or chat companionably with other humans. Monica’s at the Park is just the neighborhood hangout that warms a community— friendly, colorful, bright and with a lush patio that encourages lingering and soaking up warm San Diego vibes.

On the morning I visited the art-covered walls of Monica’s, lucky me got to try that day’s breakfast special: Grassfed Beef Hash that was crisply charred on the edges and tender and flavorful throughout. Served with a healthy pile of fantastic breakfast potatoes, this was a scrumptious and filling plate. I would even consider ordering a giant plate of potatoes by themselves. I finished mine and then polished off the rest of three friends’ helpings. What a treat to find a breakfast place that’s not afraid to put some salt, pepper and fat on their spuds.

It was somewhat surprising that the best treat I tried was the toasted bagel, slathered in cream cheese, hummus and pesto. With that collection of ingredients, I expected a mushy, bad-breath nightmare, but instead I found my new favorite way to eat a bagel. It was creamy, salty and completely satisfying, and as much as I loved the Grassfed Beef Hash, I’m still thinking about that bagel.

Do you like pancakes? Do you like candy bars? Do you wish more people would try to combine the two? The Almond Joy Pancakes at Monica’s are a chocolaty treat, along with crispy coconut and a sprinkling of almonds. The pancakes were fluffy from the pan, thankfully lacking the dry texture many flapjacks get after waiting in a restaurant warming oven.

Monica’s is a real asset to University Heights, though it does have some service wrinkles to iron out. The food is delicious, but it’s lacking in polish. That would be acceptable if Monica’s was just a coffeehouse. And maybe it’s a matter of expectations. Go in for a cup of coffee or a homemade pastry, and you’ll be warmed by the friendly service and quality product. Plus, added bonus: You can also order breakfast, like an egg-and-spinach wrap or a panini with lots of melting brie. But if you’re expecting the full breakfast-restaurant-sitdown-service experience, you’re going to be disappointed. Ordering at the counter and waiting for them to call your name is no biggie. What I found frustrating was taking one of the few menus they had to offer, perusing all of the delicious possibilities and then finding out that many of the items weren’t available. C’mon, guys—I can tell by the Blackadder font that you cranked those suckers out on Word and had them laminated at Kinko’s—and that’s fine. But how about updating them so persnickety (and hungry) customers don’t get confused? Also, though I realize Monica’s is a full-service coffee shop, charging 65 cents for a refill on black coffee to a breakfast-enjoying patron doesn’t really engender good will.

But the food is tasty and, anal-retentive critiques aside, I would return in a heartbeat for a panini or to check out the very cool local art for sale on the walls. It may not be perfect, but there are few better ways to spend a morning than enjoying a bagel on Monica’s patio.

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.