San Diego Unseen: An Urban Portrait
I felt about her the way Michael and Julius, owners of Savory Deli and Market, must feel about the three countries I never saw. They haven’t missed a nook, let alone a cranny, in their 10-year, up-close-and-personal exploration of Spanish, French and Italian cuisine—in fact, this University Heights emporium is their personal tribute to this superior fare. Their wizardry culminates in things like the Pladina sandwich, the one with quince and Manchego cheese on the best Italian flatbread you’ve ever tasted. Quince tastes like fermented apple; the cheese is made from sheep’s milk. If the thought of this outstanding combination scares you away, don’t blame me for what you’ve missed (and even if you don’t like it, you’re only out $6.25). You can get a garden salad on the side for $2.50; the splendid aromas of European breads and oils are free.
Savory, located at 4661 Park Blvd. in University Heights, is closed Mondays and open Tuesdays through Fridays from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturdays from 8:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. (call 619-683-3772 or visit savorydelimarket.com for more). It does a weekend brunch, it delivers and it offers its fare for retail. There’s no Brel music, no Bacchus and, sadly, no Anna here. But the Savory experience got me thinking in that direction—and after all, it’s the thought that counts.
