Paint it red

The Red Door's Blue Smoke Martini

Once inside, though, the palate, the atmosphere and the entire experience is graceful and calm.

Dining at The Red Door feels like having a meal in Ina Garten’s Hamptons living room—but without any pretension or awkward-fitting pants. Classy and crisp, like a comfortable beach house, this is the kind of place to enjoy a romantic three-course meal with your sweetie or an elegant glass of wine after work.

No one’s ever accused me of being elegant, so I checked out the cocktail menu. The Blue Smoke Martini was one of the more original libations I’ve had in awhile. It’s a straight-up vodka martini, but, first, the glass is rinsed out with Laphroiag Scotch whiskey, and every time you sip the concoction, your schnoz gets a peaty whiff of mystery. The Cranberry Mojito was another fresh, seasonal and perfectly balanced cocktail. Not too sweet, not too minty, but all working together to be quite refreshing.

Don’t miss the Braised Pork Cheeks—outstanding and not scary at all. Seriously, my risk-averse friends, you will be wowed by the tenderness and the perfect little sweater of puff pastry wrapped lovingly around the cheeks. Oh, I just wanted to pinch them they were so tasty! Instead, I washed them down with Scotch-scented vodka and toasted Homer Simpson, who unwittingly declared the pig a “magical animal.” Indeed.

The house meatloaf was another return-worthy item. modern twists on comfort food are nothing new, but to do them well without seeming gimmicky is a challenge. The turkey meatloaf at The Red Door is cake-like in quality; it’s so moist and meaty. The seasoning was distinct without being distracting, with touches of cumin that gave the meat a beautiful richness.

I still haven’t found a cornmeal coating for fish that isn’t dry, but the catfish here was so hot and flaky inside and perfectly cooked that it didn’t matter. Besides, I was too delighted by the bed of sweet potato and crab hash the fish lay upon. The sweet meat of the crab, along with the sweet meat of the tuber, drizzled with a bit of the house barbecue sauce, was a pretty and unexpected combination. It could stand on its own as a quirky appetizer, perhaps as a topping for the house flatbread.

The seasonal apple tart with caramel sauce and ice cream was the only weak note in an otherwise tasty evening. The tart was good, but the ice cream was nothing special. As much as I like Häagen-Dazs when I’m sitting on my couch watching Swamp Loggers, I’ve come to expect more than store-bought from restaurants putting out food the caliber of The Red Door’s.

The staff is friendly, and they manage that tricky balance between being attentive without hovering. The prices are moderate, as The Red Door is continuing the welcome trend of providing excellent value with entrées priced under $20.

The Red Door is grownup without feeling stuffy, modern but not trendy. I have to admit, there are a lot of places around town—hip, fun, delicious restaurants that make me think, I couldn’t bring [insert your pickiest relative] here. Not everyone takes to minimalist furniture or offbeat ingredients or low lighting that makes it impossible to read a menu. The Red Door is solid and comforting and sure to make your belly happy and your cheeks smiley. Just let me pinch them first.

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.