The right angle

Blueprint’s mac-and-cheese and a spinach salad are simple but done well.
- Photo by Jenny Montgomery

Downtown employees willing to venture a bit farther for lunch should check out Blueprint Café, currently only serving lunch, but no matter—it’s churning out some excellent homemade fare.

“Homemade” should go without saying at most restaurants, but the food at Blueprint has a from-scratch flavor that tastes less like restaurant food and more like Mom’s kitchen. It may lack the finesse and trendiness that some culinary establishments have, but maybe more importantly, the food has heart. The menu isn’t huge, but Blueprint’s not the type of restaurant you go to for experimental riffs on mung beans or braised unicorn.

I started with an enormous bowl of tomato soup. I was expecting (and, honestly, hoping for) a bowl of something creamy—a homemade version with a Campbell’s consistency.

I was pleasantly surprised to get an absolutely steaming bowl that was brothy, spicy and bursting with ingredients. Along with the tomatoes, there’s rice, corn, fresh thyme and— is this a chunk of chicken? Surprising little nuggets of shredded dark meat gave the soup an unexpected depth. If I were a vegetarian, I would not have been happy with that little surprise, as I just assumed the tomato soup would be meat-free. This carnivore didn’t mind at all, but Veggies might want to ask before ordering.

The spinach salad was the best I’ve ever had. The spinach was tender, fresh and plentiful.

Add to the mix traditional toppings of hard-boiled egg, eye-watering red onion and warm bacon dressing and the salad was hearty and flavorful enough for Popeye, with creamy, stinky, mouth-watering hunks of blue cheese to put some cushion on Olive Oyl’s bones.

I was also impressed with the macaroni and cheese as a well-priced and satisfying luncheon side dish. Served simply in a ramekin, it’s macaroni—and cheese. No truffles, no lobster, just gooey goodness baked with noodles and a dusting of breadcrumbs.

As I nibbled on the crispy, grilled bread that came with my soup, I was delighted to see a gentleman walk by with a bundle of actual blueprints under one arm. I hoped he was an actor, hired to add visual authenticity to Blueprint. However, since the café shares space with an architecture and urban-planning firm, he was probably just a guy heading to work.

Blueprint Café occupies the space formerly held by the restaurant The Guild; the building is owned by the aforementioned architects. Blueprint owner / chef and “In Good Taste” caterer Gayle Covner may be on to a smart dining model, serving just lunch Mondays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. They seem to be slowly expanding their offerings, though, and began serving breakfast (6:30 to 10 a.m.) a week or so ago. By focusing on people who live and work in the area during the week, Covner should build a loyal following, especially with the soulful food coming out of her kitchen.

If you’re lucky, Covner may serve you herself, kindly sharing with you the extra touches she gave to your meal to make it just a bit more special. It’s clear that she and her staff care not only about food, but also about feeding people. Get the soup or catch of the day, a salad or a hamburger, and go away with a full tummy and a smile on your face.

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.

An earlier version of the article said Blueprint was open until 6 p.m. on certain days. They've recently changed their hours, which are accurately listed above.