Simple but sophisticated

Old guy: “Can I get more coffee?” Prepkitchen hostess: “Yes, it’s counter service.”

OG: “What?” PKH: “Counter service.” OG: “What?” PKH: “Counter service. You get your own coffee at the counter.”

OG: “Huh? Well that’s not service.”

This isn’t your parents’ diner, nor is it typical of most La Jolla dining establishments, and that’s a good thing.

Though I like someone to freshen my breakfast mug as much as the next person, the delicious coffee at Prepkitchen is free, and the nature of the restaurant is stylishly casual, so counter service doesn’t seem like something to quibble about.

At Prepkitchen, the humble sister restaurant to Arturo Kassel’s popular Whisknladle, you order your food at the counter, take a number, and wait for it to be brought to your table. But that’s where the similarities to any quasi-fast-food restaurant end. The meals they’re turning out at Prepkitchen are just plain delicious. Kassel and his crew at both establishments know what they’re doing with food. Their commitment to the slow-food movement through local and seasonal ingredients is showcased as well as anyone in town.

But back to that free coffee. When you walk into Prepkitchen, you’re cheerfully welcomed into a small but homey place with rough wood beams, deep-blue tile and mostly outside seating. And there, perched on a windowsill, is the lovely set-up where you can doctor your free cup o’ Joe—or, if you’re having lunch or dinner, scoop yourself a cup of the house-cured olives to munch on while you wait. Free coffee! Free olives! When can I move in? Of course, nothing is free— you’re still paying La Jolla prices, even for Prepkitchen’s simpler offerings.

The French toast with plums from Temecula’s Crow’s Pass Farms is light, soft and sweet, with warm maple syrup and sage butter working in salty-sweet harmony. The plums are a unique accompaniment with the eggy bread, and all the ingredients work together for a simple but sophisticated breakfast.

If your tummy needs something more filling than French toast, don’t miss the beef “hash” with poached eggs, potatoes and horseradish gremolata. The beef is so tender that it practically shreds itself if you stare at it long enough. And the flavor is scrumptious, its juices soaking the toasted bread beneath it. The poached egg on top was so perfectly soft-boiled that I wanted to show it to everyone else on the patio, but Mr. City Eat told me that would embarrass him.

Lunch is nothing to sniff at, either. One standout was the house-roasted turkey sandwich. I’ve mentioned before my prejudice toward turkey sandwiches, but this little number was filled with so many fun and complementary ingredients that I couldn’t pass it up. With sweet figs, perfectly crunchy bacon, caramelized onions and creamy brie, the turkey could have been overpowered, but everything worked together beautifully. I couldn’t resist trying one of the house-made cookies—turns out the crew at Prepkitchen even excels at baked goods. I gobbled up a chocolate-chip coconut cookie that was soft and chewy with just the right amount of crispy coconut bits.

Brunch is available only on weekends, but lunch and dinner are served throughout the week. In addition to the Fay Avenue location, Prepkitchen is turning out good eats in the heart of Del Mar. Both restaurants have a nice selection of snacks—yes, they call them snacks, not “tapas” or “small plates” or “bites”—that are a great way to kick off a more la-dee-dah kind of happy hour.

The folks at Prepkitchen aren’t reinventing the wheel, or the omelette, for that matter. What they are doing is serving consistently wonderful food. Just save me some free olives.

Write to jennym@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com.