Face in the crowd

It has its share of detractors—most of whom can’t find a parking space for lunch or dinner—but Old Town San Diego is a seriously popular destination around these parts. Its state park and acclaimed collection of museums and specialty shops cater to nearly 10 million tourists an hour, a number nearly equivalent to complaints about the parking and the average monthly dollar cost per square foot for office space. Several bars and eateries dot the landscape, too, doubling as aid stations for all those overcome visitors and, especially, for the myriad distraught tenants on the run from their equally desperate landlords.

It’d be a cinch for them to pass by Barra Barra Saloon, what with its grayish exterior and the thickened foliage out front. But if you make the same mistake, you’re missing out on some of the best victuals in the neighborhood. Salads and enchiladas seem to be the orders of the day here, and they look downright steroidal amid their portion size—but permit me to steer you toward the grilled mahi mahi tacos ($8.99 for two), equally gigrundous and a perfect pair with the house tea. And watch out for the delish black-bean dip, which was made for the chips it comes with—magically, the latter don’t crumble under the weight of the dip, which must be a first for restaurants everywhere.

You’re enjoying this in a hacienda motif as immaculate as it is quaint, and you’re doing it at 4016 Wallace St. between 11:30 a.m. and 8:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. and 10 p.m. Fridays, 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. Saturdays and 11 a.m. and 8:30 p.m. Sundays (the number’s 619-291-3200). Stop in and take advantage of the upshot from place’s inconspicuous exterior. Better that than an impromptu game of bumper cars with this hour’s 10 millionth visitor.