The state of things

Hawaii turned 50 in August of last year, but the public celebrations turned a blind eye to some of the history that got it there. The U.S. (who else?) overthrew Queen Liliuokalani’s kingdom in 1893—we annexed the islands five years later, and they remained an American territory until statehood in 1959. Bill Clinton officially apologized for the military’s role in deposing Lil, but by then, it was way too late. Our incursion spelled the beginning of the end to Hawaii’s centuries of experiments in self-governance; once again, and typically, we’d shot ourselves in our G.I.-clad feet.

We can’t make things right, but we can console ourselves over a little traditional Hawaiian cuisine, preferably at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue. This Hillcrest eatery serves up a Kalua pig ($6.95) to die for, zesty with seasoning, mixed with succulent cabbage and perfect with a side of potato salad or rice. If you like bacon, you’ll love this fare—the roasted meat has that bacony taste, but some expert marinating brings out the flavor from the inside. It’s absolutely delicious, and it’s also pretty heavy (especially amid the restaurant’s tradition of large portions), so be sure to fast for about a week before you go. I had a sample of the mahi mahi with tartar sauce, too—it’s scrumptious and the perfect dish for lighter tastes.

L&L is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays; the number is 619-297-1888 (there are locations in El Cajon and La Jolla, as well). Try it—meanwhile, don’t worry about that pesky historical footnote. It’s nice to know some things never change, even when certain unseen forces seek to impose their will at the point of a gun.