When I was in college, I landed a juicy role in The Royal Hunt of the Sun, a play about Francisco Pizarro’s vicious conquest of Peru’s Inca Indians. Theater whore that I am, my first-place acting award stuck out as the most memorable thing about the experience, but I learned some interesting stuff about Incan history along the way. Did you know that the tribe had never seen or heard of horses before Frank’s boys hit the scene? Talk about culture shock! What was next—the space ship that carried them?!
Out of a sense of tribute, I’ve always paid a little extra attention to things Peruvian, like the food—so it was a happy day when I stumbled on Nazca Grill, a Clairemont Mesa eatery that takes all due advantage of a serious Peruvian tradition. Peru is one of the world’s major fishing nations, just like in the Incas’ 16th century; try Nazca’s Pescado Frito ($9), and you’ll taste the country’s expertise with this cuisine. The dish is nothing more than fried white fish with rice and grilled potatoes—but something about the batter gives it a flavor all its own, as if it’s been cooked in its own oil. It’s melt-in-your-mouth splendiferous; the rice alone leaves you wanting more, and the staff anticipates that. It makes a big production out of its chaufa dishes ($9 to $9.50), which feature mounds of rice sprinkled with fried egg.
Nazca also serves something called Inca Cola to wash down your meal. And although that isn’t much of a tribute to one of the world’s great cultures, it sure is good. You can get it and all the other fare by visiting 4310 Genesee Ave. between 11:30 a.m. and 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays (858-560-0873). Against their will, the Incans have left the building, but their home and its cuisine are very much alive.


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