Fruit of the Vine

Margaret had just forked over some cash for her second flight, and we’re not talkin’ American Airlines here. In wine parlance, a flight is made up of three generous samples, each paired with the other in an attempt to strike the common fancy. Apparently, Margaret has more than one of those fancies, and she wasn’t leaving until she found it.

“I’m just here to assist with the journey,” the bartender told her in mock derision. “The destination is sorta up to you.”

That’s how things are at The Vine Wine Bar & Café. Since it’s in Ocean Beach, you’d expect exactly that kind of snide but all-in-fun retort. Beyond that, this place is clean as a whistle (maybe two), with nice avant-garde art for your eyes, soft rock for your ears and a decent Pinot and Cabernet Sauvignon for your palate. Forty-Two Degrees South, a 2004 Pinot from Wellington Wines on the far-flung island of Tasmania ($8), and the 2005 Rock and Vine Cab from our North Coast’s Three Ranches winery ($7) are spicy and insistent, with red- and black-cherry vibes that go well with The Vine’s Brie cheese board (served with fresh fruit). The rest of the menu leans heavily toward seafood and salads, a lucky stroke indeed for those partial to whites.

I do hope Margaret found her common fancy. She seemed like a nice sort, and she certainly sports good taste when it comes to wine bars. This one’s at 1851 Bacon St., and it’s open from 4 to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and from 4 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. You can call over there at 619-222-8463—but it’s advised you not ask for Margaret. If she’s there, she’s having a perfectly fine time without you. Thanks for your cooperation.