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A Night at the Besties Oct 23, 2014 Celebrate CityBeat's "Best of San Diego" issue with live music from Little Hurricane and Steph Johnson, performances from the Fern Street Circus, an art exhibit from the Dream Machine Arts Collective, a mobile video arcade by Coin Op North Park and more. 60 other events on Thursday, October 23
 
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Epic San Diego Museum of Art exhibition promises a textbook lesson in the evolution of modern works
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Kevin Faulconer’s likely to tack left on sustainability
Film
Adaptation of Patricia Highsmith novel tops our coverage of movies screening around town
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With few specifics on who they were looking for, officers held the wrong man at gunpoint
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Steve Martin and Edie Brickell’s musical leads our rundown of local plays

 

 
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Home / Articles / Eats / Bottle Rocket /  Luca Syrah is a manly wine
. . . .
Monday, Jun 04, 2012

Luca Syrah is a manly wine

And it’s also a terrific value for the price

By Anders Wright
bottlerocket 2010 Luca Syrah Laborde Double Select

Woody Allen’s films are much like good wine. They’re layered, complex, sophisticated, enjoyable and, like the best wines in your life, memorable. At least, his good films are. The bad ones—well, they feel like a young, overpriced bottle that you wish you hadn’t sprung for.

Last year, Allen released Midnight in Paris, and it was a return to form for him. It was whimsical, smart and nostalgic of the best parts of his career. The most memorable character in this one was Corey Stoll’s Ernest Hemingway, despite being a supporting role. Stoll turned him into someone who was sophisticated and larger than life, pushing him beyond the film’s other literary legends, like F. Scott Fitzgerald, Alice B. Toklas and Gertrude Stein. It was that performance that I thought of as I sipped the 2010 Luca Syrah Laborde Double Select, a hearty, meaty wine out of Mendoza, Argentina, which I picked up from Costco the other day for just under $20.

Even the bottle this wine comes in feels manly, serious and solid, the sort you could crack over someone’s noggin if it came down to it in a wine-bar brawl. It’s got a gorgeous ruby color, looking like it would go well with a slab of seared meat, dark on the outside and bright pink in the middle. This is tough stuff, the sort of wine that will obviously overpower something as finicky as fish or as paltry as poultry. The nose is earthy and ripe, and you get a sense of loam and wood before you bring it to your mouth, where it spreads out in an array of flavors. There’s smoke and game and the big flavors of creamy full-grown berries, dark chocolate and intense spice. It hangs around your palate, but it’s more like a flirtatious friend than the sort of guest you wish would leave.

Sure, Mendoza is a long way from Paris, but the sentiment is the same, and unlike many French wines, the Luca Syrah makes for a terrific value. Try it. Hell, try it with Midnight in Paris. It makes for a great pairing.

Write to anders@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com. You can follow Anders on Twitter at @anderswright.




 
 
 
 
 
 
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