My Friends

Arrow Up

Arrow Up
Arrow Down
,
  • Fri
    18
  • Sat
    19
  • Sun
    20
  • Mon
    21
  • Tue
    22
  • Wed
    23
  • Thu
    24
World According To... Parker & the Numberman Apr 18, 2014 A Friday night series where Finest City Improv invites a special guest, or guests, to tell real-life stories that FCI's best improvisers then use to create comedic sketches. This week's special guests are local hip-hop act Parker & the Numberman. 57 other events on Friday, April 18
 
Canvassed | Art & culture
A tale of near-death, bloody steaks and unprecedented opulence
News
Why the city can’t maintain enough emergency trucks
Film
Documentary about ill-fated project leads our rundown of movies screening around town
News
Meet ‘Jackie,’ one of the many faces of sex-trafficking
Arts & Culture feature
What could’ve been, what could be and what’s actually happening with the embattled 2015 celebration

 

 
Log in to use your Facebook account with
San Diego CityBeat

Login With Facebook Account

Recent Activity on San Diego CityBeat
 
Home / Articles / Eats / Wandering Appetite /  Pizzeria ...
. . . .
Monday, Mar 26, 2012

Pizzeria Bruno Napoletano is the upper crust

University Heights joint’s Naples-style pizza not a secret anymore

By Marie Tran-McCaslin
pizzeriabrunosandiego
- Photo by Marie Tran-McCaslin

Pizzeria Bruno Napoletano (4207 Park Blvd. in University Heights) turned heads when it first opened in San Diego, with its soft-centered pizza, crispy crust and perfectly developed gluten. For enthusiasts, it was a great addition to the pizza scene. For those who haven’t tried Naples-style pizza, it was an opportunity to get to know a specific style of pie from a wood-fired oven.

Before it came along, I didn’t appreciate pizza crust. It was merely a carrier for whatever was on top. I would eat it, but it was a bland afterthought and not something to be savored. The crust at Pizzeria Bruno, however, is no afterthought. The flavor is complex, the result of properly risen crust, and it stands on its own, regardless of the toppings.

The pizzas I grew up with were distinctly Californian, with a focus on toppings. Bruno’s pizzas definitely don’t lack for interesting toppings, and, more importantly, there is an emphasis on quality. The ingredients don’t fade against the delicious crust; choices include fresh burrata, buffalo-milk mozzarella, soppressata, prosciutto and fennel sausage. On a recent visit, I had the Salcicce (Italian for “sausage”), which featured fennel sausage along with broccoli rabe. The middle was almost molten. I’d grab a slice, drizzle the addictive chili oil all over (ask for it!) and eat the point with a knife and fork. Then, I’d fold the rest of the slice, working my way to the crust, which I’d enjoy on its own. Other favorites include the Afumicata, with its smoked cheese, and the sauceless Bufalina.

For those who want appetizers, the salads are great and the bruschetta is a must-have when tomatoes are in season. The drink menu features beer and wine but won’t knock any socks off. No matter—you’re there for fabulous pizza.

When Bruno opened in 2009 in a nook of Park Boulevard near Sprouts (formerly Henry’s) Market, it was quieter and known by local pizza aficionados and food enthusiasts. Nowadays, it’s bustling and tables aren’t always easy to get; it’s still a gem, but not so hidden anymore. 



Write to marietm@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com. Marie blogs at meanderingeats.com and you can follow her on Twitter at @MeanderingEats.




 
 
 
 
 
 
Close
Close
Close