My Friends

Arrow Up

Arrow Up
Arrow Down
,
  • Mon
    22
  • Tue
    23
  • Wed
    24
  • Thu
    25
  • Fri
    26
  • Sat
    27
  • Sun
    28
Sordid Tales
How can so many people be wrong about something for so long?
There She Goz
Children’s center is training tiny, adorable consumers
Seen Local
City takes a slow and careful approach to the public-art gem
News
Rosemary Summers succeeded in 2013, and her parents want justice
The World Fare
Kearny Mesa Chinese place serves the best potstickers and xiao long bao in town

 

 
Log in to use your Facebook account with
San Diego CityBeat

Login With Facebook Account

Recent Activity on San Diego CityBeat
 
Home / Articles / Eats / Wandering Appetite /  Luxurious Currant is sexy and indulgent
. . . .
Monday, Mar 12, 2012

Luxurious Currant is sexy and indulgent

Downtown brasserie serves up simple French-American food

By Marie Tran-McCaslin
currantsandiego Flavored popcorn and tater tots
- Photo by Marie Tran-McCaslin

With a luxurious interior, Currant American Brasserie’s (140 W. Broadway) interior is what I’d imagine if Marie Antoinette lived today as a restaurant designer. Damask-patterned upholstery, brass-studded wooden chairs and a black-and-white checkered floor decorate a space that’s sexy and modern without being tacky. The menu swings from French to American and everything in between. From steak frites to flavored popcorn, the food is sensual and simple.

I always start with the daily flavored popcorn. One popular flavor is Gruyere cheese and ham, which combines a very American snack with very French flavors. On my last visit, the server mentioned his favorite was sun-dried tomatoes, basil and feta, which is a combination I look forward to trying. Also on the appetizer list are garlic and chive tots, and, even though I think tots are often overdone, Currant’s are addictive with habañero ketchup and buttermilk ranch for dipping.

Years ago, I developed a lifelong love affair with moule frites in Paris, and Currant takes me back with a heaping bowl of mussels served with crispy fries. The steak frites are delicious, and the seared scallops are plate-licking good, as the dried cherry compote brings out the sweet scallops perfectly. From the American side of the menu, the Brasserie Burger is more than decent. I suggest a side of the tasty Brussels sprouts, regardless of whether you order the mussels or a burger. Dessert includes Currant’s fantastic ice cream, although I don’t recommend the profiteroles. Other selections include a chevre cheesecake, chocolate pot de creme and lemon tart. To wash it all down, an extensive drink menu offers wine, beer, cocktails and absinthe.

The Sofia Hotel’s restaurant, Currant covers lunch, dinner, weekend brunch and happy hour. Those dining at the bar will find a condensed menu with a few extras not offered on the dinner menu, like Stone IPA-battered fish tacos. Currant is about understated indulgence and, like many sexy things, it’s appealing because it’s not overly excessive.

Write to marietm@sdcitybeat.com and editor@sdcitybeat.com. Marie blogs at meanderingeats.com and you can follow her on Twitter at @MeanderingEats.




 
 
 
 
 
 
Close
Close
Close