Size matters

The peeps who run Small Bar, University Heights’ newest food-and-drink fixture, aren’t exactly kidding. The venue’s floor is exactly half the size of a sidewalk concrete slab, and the illusion of space is further diminished by the interior’s pitch-black hues and little cathedral-style groins. I don’t wanna say anything, but I fell to my knees upon entering and stayed there until the barkeep insisted I hadn’t walked into a confessional by mistake. Those old habits do die hard, especially given that I haven’t been inside one of the infernal things since God was about 12.

But sometimes, small is good—in this case, it’s really good. It only encourages the togetherness this neighborhood trots out for its fledgling businesses, especially one with a menu like this. Salads and sandwiches, from the steak to vegan varieties, abound alongside corndogs and sliders for the comfort food-minded. Even so, Sunday brunch may be your best bet. Sure, the omelet ($15) features the usual cool things like mushrooms and cheese and hop sausage and tomatoes and stuff —but with four eggs, big enough to split almost into thirds. And to boot, the brunch dishes come with your choice of beverage (hint: This place makes a Bloody Mary meaner than Mary herself, and she can be pretty mean sometimes). The eponymous bar awaits as well, featuring about a thousand tap beers and a host who’s never poured a single in her life. (Sunday brunch is served between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.)

So while Small Bar may sport a diminutive stature, it makes it up in lavish fare, lotsa beer and a big, fat, happy crowd. All this and more is on display at 4628 Park Blvd., from noon to 2 a.m. Mondays through Saturdays and 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Sundays (phone 619-795-7998). Just don’t mistake it for a repository of past regrets. You may say something you’ll be sorry for.