Latching on

How do winemakers manage to keep air away from their grape juice without piercing the fruit’s delicate outer skin? Nunna yer goddamn business, say those who rely on this method as their stock in trade. All they’ll say is that the process is called reductive manufacture, wherein not a whit of oxygen touches the skin or innards during harvest—something about the use of special latches and rubber seals. From the sound of that, either the wine industry can tout a sophisticated development or the bondage trade has finally cracked the market. I’ll check on that and get back to y’all.

Doesn’t really matter, though. The SeaGlass Wine Co., out of Napa County, stands on its own merit amid its Sauvignon Blanc entry, a widely acclaimed product of this method for years upon years. The process yields a comely product amid its light, tawny hue, and I’m here to tell you this stuff tastes as good as it looks. There’s a tropical taste at play here (I noticed a lot of citrus-y aromas), which makes this an ideal summer selection, especially amid the gloom that’s been dogging the skies since what seems like the end of World War I. I like heavy pastas and cheeses with wines like these—the beverage’s crisp sensation makes a great complement to the more substantive main course.
You, of course, are free to accommodate this very good Sauv any way you like—but first, you have to buy it. A bottle costs $11.99 at better wine stores; Henry’s has it on sale temporarily for $9.99, and I found it in my neighborhood at a one-day reduced price of $10.99. But don’t quibble about the nickels and dimes—bring it home, haul out a decent cheese and make a toast. And just to cover your bases, you might want to rent some bondage-heavy porn for after.